From San Remo into the province
There are two small ones on the hills just outside Sanremo, popular, but completely different towns. The first of them, BUSSANA VECCHIA makes a rather off-putting impression. After a strong earthquake of the year 1887, the houses are kept in a state of artificial ruin, and the streets are crammed with monstrously expensive galleries, in which they create different, craftsmen aspiring to the title of artists. The bus tour in front of Sanremo station is much more interesting (departure co 20 Min.) to the quiet town of TAGGIA. Everything is penetrated by the sound of cicadas singing from the surrounding fields. Long, narrow streets are distinguished by good acoustics and a variety of portals carved in slate, which were the symbol of the individual, families living in the city. Portals deteriorated and fell off in whole fragments along with the collapse of a given family's property. The main attraction of the city is San Domenico, located in the cloisters (Fri-Wed. 9.00-12.00 i 15.00-18.00) collection of works by Ligurian artists, but what is truly fascinating is the ancient fesla of St.. Magdalena. It takes place on the next Sunday 22 July, and its culmination is the "Dance of Death" performed by two men traditionally from the same two families, accompanied by a local brass band.
Baiardo
Behind CERIANA, on the other side of Monte Bignone, terraced meadows and forests surround BAIARDO (accessible by bus from Sanremo). It is tiny, consisting of only a few houses clustered around the church, town on the hill, from which there is a view of the surrounding valleys. You can relax here in a pleasant atmosphere, and walk along paths through fields and vineyards . Best to stay in Pensione Colombo (*0184/93034; room 20000 L) or at the Hotel Pineta (* 0184/93014; Ok. 29000 L). Pineta has an excellent restaurant, in which local specialties are served (for example. wild boar dishes). Festa della Barca takes place at Whitsun in Baiardo, during which around a beautifully lined mast, with a small tree at the top, there are dances.
Seven and a half kilometers west of Baiardo is the village of APRICALE, as if attached to a spire-shaped rock. PERINALDO, situated even higher, looms in the distance. Two kilometers from Apricale, at ISOLABONA, buses to Dolceacąua stop, Bordighery i Ventimiglii (See. below).
Triora
Deeper in the mountains, at the edge of the rural Argentina valley, there is a tiny village of TRIORA. The bus trip itself is already interesting, as you are driving along the rocky bed of the Argentina River, passing small settlements with ancient bridges and farms, which are connected to the main road on the other side of the ridge by a system of ropes and winches. Picturesquely situated Triora lies literally at the end of the road, in the shadow of Monte Pietradura, covered with snow until April. The path starts a few bends below the village, which comes down first, and then it goes up to MOLINI DI TRIORA (the bus passes the village early). The name comes from the once numerous mills along the banks of the river (you can still buy a special flat type of bread here). In the year 1588 two hundred women living in this remote village were pronounced witches. 30 of them were tortured, 14 burned at the stake, and one committed suicide, before the execution could be carried out. W Ethnographic Museum w Triora (VI-IX in the afternoon) there are documents related to this process. There are also other items formerly used in everyday life by the local peasants.