San Remo
SAN REMO had its great days at the beginning of this century, when wealthy Europeans stayed in large seaside hotels and strolled around Corso Imperatrice. Some of the old buildings, especially around the train station, they are gray and neglected, but others are still in their prime. San Remo remains an elegant town, and much more lively than the others, located farther north, faded summer resorts.
The main artery of the city, Corso Matteotti, extends from the central Piazza Colombo to the west. It is full of discos, cocktail bars, ice cream shop, Parisian-Milan style cinemas and boutiques, and the neon signs in the side streets crossing it invite you to private clubs, expensive restaurants and hotels, where rooms are rented by the hour.
Lush gardens and parks have attracted a large group of wealthy Russian political refugees to San Remo, who lived here at the end of the 19th century "under the care" of Maria Aleksandrovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II. They covered the construction costs which were completed in latch 20., topped with an onion-shaped dome, of the Orthodox Church on Via Nuvolini. Another remnant of this era is located near the intersection of Fratelli Asquascati and Corso degli Inglese, neglected Art Nouveau building, with a majolica glaze still visible and stained glass irises.
The flower market on Via Garibaldi is a unique spectacle, but you have to be there before 6.30 water. As you approach, you see waiters running around with trays of espresso and woven flower boxes attached to vans.. The market is intended only for wholesalers (lilies e.g.. fifty pieces are packed), but no one pays attention to onlookers, as long as they don't get in the way of anyone.
From Piazza Colombo, arcades lead to Piazza Cassini, from where you go to the Old Town, called La Pigna (Fir cone) from the look of the streets climbing in layers. Monte Bignone towers over La Pigna and the rest of the city (1300 m.), which one with Corso Inglese (near the market) the cable car runs.
There are no interesting galleries or museums in the city, even the local beach near the train station is quite dirty, but the biggest draw to San Remo is its not-so-flawless character. Pornographic cinemas (specializing in American movies for seafarers), shops selling "Souvenir from San Remo" lamps, trolleybuses, tired cafes overlooking the marina etc., give the city a relaxed atmosphere, which allows you to breathe after others, completely "decent" towns of this region. San Remo is also conveniently located for tourists wishing to travel deep into the province. Bus connections are quite good, but of course it's easier to travel with your own transport (bikes and small cars of the "Vespa" can be rented at the marina). Information for pedestrians is available at the rear of the Red Cross Ambulance Service in Piazza Cassina, Club Alpino Italiano (wt. i pt. 21.30-22.30, Wed. and sb. 18.00-19.00). Maps with shelters marked on them, Trails and slopes can be purchased at Libreria Cauda, Via Gioberti 17.
Arrival, information and accommodation
The train station is located on the seashore on the western edge of the city. Assistance in finding accommodation can be sought either in the office at the station (codz. 7.45-19.45; closed in winter. Nd.) or in AAST, Via Nuvolini 1 (Mon-Sat. 8.00-19.00, Nd. 9.00-13.00) across the street. The bus station is five minutes from the train station, in front of Piazza Colombo (tickets at a kiosk nearby). Orange trolleybuses run around the city and to Taggia (See. lower) they stop in front of the train station.
Finding accommodation is not a problem, except August, Italian holiday month. Przy Corso Mombello (5 minutes to the right of the station) there are many hotels, from which you can choose e.g.. Mombello (# 49; »0184/86528; rooms 35000 L). Another group of hotels exists between the two streets that connect at the station, Via Roma i Corso Matteotti, on Via Gioberti: Diana (# 3; •0184/80621; from 15000 L), Olympiad (# 25; * 0184/80093; 21000 L) in Venice (too # 25; • 0184/80110; 21000 L).
Most decent hotels are four- or five-star. The exception is the Hotel San Remo, located away from the road, Corso Garibaldi 123 (• 0184/84591), where you pay for a room from 45 000 L and above. Similar in style and prices is the nearby Yilla Italia, Via September 45 (• 0184/86080). Both reservations must be made well in advance.
Gastronomy and nightlife
Food for the trip: grilled chickens, salami, cheeses or various delicacies in jelly, sells some big shops on Via Palazzo (block from Piazza Colombo). In the old town (first street right from Piazza Cassini) Osteria della Costa is situated, specializing in delicious rabbit stews (there are few tables, you have to come around. 20.00). Fresh salads in large portions can be tasted in the Shaker Bar, Corso Matteotti 152 (open all day). There is also the Cantine San Remo bar on Via Palazzo, which serves warm dishes at noon and early evening. At the end of the street, it's impossible not to notice the parking lot in Piazza Eroi San Remesi, which are surrounded on all sides by large ones, inexpensive restaurants-pizzerias (tourist menu from 10000 L and above).
In the evening, crowds of young people appear in Piazza Colombo and Corso Matteotti, who stroll around with ice cream in hand and play the Totocalcio lottery. A little further, przy Corso Garibaldi 49, there is Bar-Gelateria with particularly good ice cream.
Amusement enthusiasts looking for thrills can go to a cabaret in the elegant Casino. In February, you can listen to the performers of the annual song festival, which some say is even worse than the Eurovision Song Contest. Fortunately, there are plenty of other bars and clubs for those looking for quieter entertainment. Music bands perform in the Pipistrello basement, Piazza Borea in the 1st century 8 (opposite the Ariston cinema on Corso Matteotti, turn onto Via Goffredo Mameli).