North Piedmont: Biella, Varallo and Valsella
The main attraction of northern Piedmont are the mountains. Therefore, Valsesia, approaching the foothills of Monte Rosa near the border with Switzerland, boasts truly alpine landscapes. On the way north, you can stop at two of the most visited sanctuaries of this region, Santuario d'Oropa, near Biella, and Sacro Monte in Varallo. From here it is close to both the mountains of Piedmont, as well as the Valle d'Aosta located a few kilometers to the west.
Biella and Santuario d'Oropa
A short train ride northwest of Novara is the most famous of the wool industry BIELLA. Its suburbs abound in factories, and the part of the city lying on a hill in the villas and mansions of the tycoons of this industry. The city itself is not particularly attractive, but close from here to the Santuario d'Oropa located at the foot of Monte Mucrone (40 Min. bus ride to the northwest). This temple was erected in the IV century by St.. Eusebius to commemorate the dark statue of madonna and child. Huge neo-baroque main church, even though it cannot compete with the sanctuary of Varallo in terms of the impression it makes on the newcomers, is the most popular place of worship in Piedmont. Under Monte Mucrone, up to Albergo Savoia, which is closed today, there is a regular cable car. From there, a series of marked hiking trails begins, setting out the most beautiful walking routes in the surrounding mountains. One of the easiest, but also the most charming leads to the small mountain pond Lago Mucrone, while those who want to see the views without having to make a lot of effort can simply go down back to the sanctuary (Ok. half an hour). For more ambitious tourists, there is a two-hour trail to the top of Monte Mucrone.
It is better not to stop in Biella for the night, but if necessary, the city has two cheaper ones, though quite vile hotels. The better of them is Monte di Varalio, located at the far end of Via Italia. (* 015/22366) with double rooms after 28 000 L. On the other hand, located slightly to the side of Via Italia La Granda Muraglia, Via B. Bona 15 (• 015/22669) has very neglected double rooms with outdoor toilet for 20 000 L.
Varallo and Sacro Monte
VARALLO, lying on the railway line 50 kilometers north of Novara , is an introduction to the more picturesque corners of Piedmont. It is surrounded by steep, forested hills, full of Art Deco villas and baroque palazzi, the town itself is very nice, but newcomers are particularly attracted to the sanctuary of Sacro Monte, located just outside the city. (five times a day there are buses from the train station).
The town itself is also worth a short walk. The station is separated from the center by a short, possible to travel within five minutes, section Via Roma. On the way you pass the church of San Gaudenzio, surrounded by arcades, spectacularly situated above a sharp slope overgrown with wild vines. The interior of the church is less impressive, although it houses a polyptych by Gaudenzio Ferrari born in the sixteenth century in Varallo artist, whose work is most of the Sacro Monte complex. Main street, Corso Umberto I, along which palaces with balconies and shutters rise, winds through the city towards the Serio River. In the church of Madonna delle Grazie there are further works of Gaudenzio Ferrari: one of the walls is entirely covered with colored, scenes from the life of Christ full of realistic details.
For those looking for accommodation in Varallo, five minutes to the left of the train station is Albergo Monte Rosa (• 0163/51100). Including a sizable size, clean and pleasant hotel accommodation in a double room without bathroom costs 35 000 L. The AAST office is located at the corner of Corso Roma and Piazza Garibaldi (Tue-Fri. 8.30-12.00 and 14.30-18.30, Sb. 8.30-12.00 and 14.30-18.00 Nd 9.00-12.00).
Sacro Monte
Sacro Monte, lying on top of a hill towering over Varallo, is a team 44 Chapels. Each of them contains one three-dimensional scene from the life of Christ, which consists of groups of painted figures and frescoes constituting their background. The purpose of this sanctuary (founded in the fifteenth century. by a monk) it was supposed to be the strengthening of Catholicism in the region of rampant heresy. These elements of the décor were particularly emphasized, which in uneducated pilgrims were to evoke strong religious experiences . The best idea of the continued popularity of Sacro Monte is given by a visit on Sunday, when crowds of pensioners and nuns and families come here, which, at the end of the pilgrimage, arrange for themselves in pleasant, shaded picnic areas.
The whole sanctuary is an interesting set of scenes, which illustrate all major biblical events: from the fall of the first people to birth, the life and death of Christ, and these scenes contain all, even the most brutal, Details.
Chapel Of the Slaughter of the Innocents (no 11) has a floor covered with children's corpses, and Herod's soldiers taking part in the scene prepare to tear the next ones to pieces. Chapels No. 30-41 tell the story of Christ's suffering and have an extremely emotional character: there are forms of ecstatic flagellants, spitting soldiers and a whole series of bloodied statues of Christ. Reaching the Road to Calvary (no 36) pilgrim's sight of brutally kicked, the exhausted body of Christ is already filled with disgust. The main square of the sanctuary is dominated by a baroque basilica. Its central point is a dome decorated with figures sitting on fluffy clouds,that give the impression of three-dimensional,.
Valsesia
From Varallo, the road leads along the River Sesia to the foothills of the northbound, abroad in Switzerland, Monte Rosa Massif. Four valleys descend towards Italy, of which the easternmost and most charming is Valsesia. It is worth going there even if you do not intend to go on a trip, or skiing.
The road winds up the valley and the views change with each turn. On both sides, the valley is surrounded by slopes covered with dark pine forest, over which a sharp rocky ridge piles up. Popular with tourists, mainly German and Italian, traditional shingle-covered houses with cut wood balconies mixed here with Alpine style villas. The villages located here are crowded during the summer, and in winter it is full of, arriving mostly on weekends, Skiers. The quietest month is September, when many hotels are closed, but the weather in the mountains is then very changeable and further trips can be dangerous.
The villages of the Valsesia valley were founded in the thirteenth century by a religious sect from the Swiss Valais, known as Walzerzy. They came here in search of land and freedom of religion. Currently, the number of real Walzers in the valleys under Monte Rosa is estimated at approx.. 3000. Therefore, in most bars and shops you can still hear the local, old German-based dialect. For those interested in the life and work of these communities once separated from the world, the Walzer Museum is open. (VII and VIII 14.00-18.00). It is located in a traditionally furnished seventeenth-century house in the settlement of PEDEMONTE (10 minutes walk from Alagna).
ALAGNA Village, located at the end of the valley, at the foot of Monte Rosa, is the most convenient base for both skiers, as well as hikers. Although this popular village was mostly created today, at its southern end, a group of Walzer houses covered with wooden shingles has been preserved., between which wind overgrown paths. Some households are still used as farms and often on the roofs you can see hay drying, and on the back accumulated wood for firewood. Others, however,, with often seen geranium on windows, are only holiday homes.
At the foot of the mountains there are a lot of opportunities for walking, whose routes, starting from Alagna, are well marked. For those interested in more than just mountain scenery, it is possible to go down five kilometers down the path to RIVA VALDOBBIA. There is a church covered with colorful, created at the end of the sixteenth century, a fresco depicting the Last Judgment. From further trails, the most difficult ones lead towards Monte Rosa. Time and effort can be saved, using the leading up to Punta Indren (3260m.) cable car, although it is not cheap (23 000 L round trip). After reaching the top, you can go to one of the numerous rifugi there. They are mostly open from June to September, but it is better before going out to make sure at the tourist office in Alagna. If they were closed, you can go on a trip to the neighboring, already located in Valle d'Aosta, Val Gressoney (See. below).
Because during all these trips you encounter scree and pass by huge chasms, they cannot be treated lightly: you need to have a good map with you (covering all paths, rifugi and ski trails map of four valleys under Monte Rosa released studio FMB) and know the weather forecast for the mountains for the day. For experienced tourists there is a long trail from Alagna through Val Gressoney, Val d'Ayas and Zermatt in Switzerland. When using ski lifts and cable cars, it takes five days, and without these amenities it takes much longer.
Downhill skiing in the area is organized by Monterosa Ski, with an office in Alagna. Daily ticket for lifts costs 27 000 L, where you can rent equipment in the village. However, the marked downhill runs are quite narrow and not very numerous. Experienced skiers can go to Val Gressoney, but this requires driving on unmarked sections, as well as traveling certain sections on foot.
The cheapest hotel in Alagna is — located in the center of the village — a large, old-fashioned Alagnese (• 0163/91325) with double rooms without bathroom for 30000 L and bar, where you can buy sandwiches and other snacks. Most of the local restaurants are expensive, but there are also a lot of grocery stores.