Gran Paradiso National Park
The most beautiful peaks and valleys of Valle d'Aosta can be seen in the southern part of this region, where at the foot of Gran Paradiso (4061 m.) stretches the second largest national park in Italy. It is also called Gran Paradiso. Strangely enough, the founder of the park was Victor Emmanuel II, which in the year 1922 donated his huge hunting grounds to the state, to save capricorns exterminated by themselves and their hunters. Currently, over the border of the forest lives here ok. 3500 Capricorns and 6000 chamois, which, however, in winter and spring descend into the valleys. The most interesting observations can be made during the mating season in November and December, when , with a bit of luck – you can see pairs of males fighting for a female. Sometimes you can also see golden eagles, nest builder , and rare specimens of alpine flowers found here were collected in the botanical garden in the Cogne Valley.
Three valleys crossing the park, Cogne, Valsaveranche and Val de Rhemes, are popular with tourists, but the tourist base here is consciously limited and well organized. Hotels are decent (for the same money you can get more here than in the cities surrounding the park), campsites not too extensive, and in the mountains there is a lot of rifuga and well-marked trails. Although the park is primarily focused on summer hiking, areas for cross-country skiing are also good here, and every year a 45-kilometer Gran Paradiso Trek is organized in Cogne (for detailed information should be written to the local tourist office). Gran Paradiso is approached from pont in Valsavarenche, while from Cogne leads a whole range of routes of varying difficulty and length.
There are regular buses from Aosta to Cogne all year round, while Valsavarenche and Val de Rhemes can only be reached by bus in summer. At other times of the year, the easiest way to hitchhike to both of these valleys is from the village of INTROD. It lies ok. 2 kilometers from VILLENEUVE, located on the main route, within walking distance of the castles of Saint-Pierre and Sarrod de La Tour.
Val di Cogne
Val di Cogne is the largest, the most famous and beautiful part of the park. In the lower, narrow parts of the valley, surrounded on both sides by mighty rocky ridges, the road runs over the fast current of the Grand Eyvia River. Next, around the main village of COGNE, the valley is expanding, and behind the gently green meadows you can see glacier-covered peaks.
Office AAST, in the center of the village (weekdays 9.00-12.30 and 15.00-18.00, nd. and holidays 9.00-12.30), Has (not very accurate) maps with tour descriptions in English. One of the easiest, and at the same time the most beautiful of them leads along the winding valley of the valnontey river, from where glaciers are visible all the way. The trail ends in the small village of VALNONTEY, where the trail to the Rifugio V hut begins. Sella (Easter-IX; • 0165/74310; very popular, most crowded on summer weekends and at the beginning. VIII). The path leads past the botanical garden (VI-IX), then it winds up through the forest and descends to the rifugio located on the grassy plain. About half an hour walk from the rifugio lies the mountain pond Lausan, where, especially at sunrise and sunset, you can see Capricorns. Experienced tourists can go further through Colle de Lausan to Val de Rhemes.
Near the village of Cogne there is a campsite Vallee de Cogne, and in Valnontey two others: Stambecco and Gran Paradiso. The first one is open all year round, the other two from June to October. Most hotels are closed from mid-September to mid-November, and some also from April to mid-May. In high season it is difficult to find free rooms, therefore, it is better to book them by phone some time in advance. The cheapest hotels in Cogne are stambecco, located just off the road to Valnontey (• 0165/74068) with double rooms without bathroom for 20 000-36 000 L (depending on the season), and located on the main road Du Soleil (• 0165/74033), in which you pay ok. 35 000 L. Restaurants are expensive, but there are a few premises, where takeaway food is packed. There are also numerous salumeries, where sandwiches are prepared on site on request.
Valsavarenche
Next valley to the west, Valsavarenche, even though it is not as picturesque as Val di Cogne, has its own charm and attracts seasoned tourists more than amateurs of gentle walks. WITH PONT, located at the end of the valley, the most popular route starts here, which leads to the top of Gran Paradiso. Although this approach is considered the easiest among the approaches to the higher peaks of the Alps, it is still more of a climb than a tourist route, and in addition the trail is marked only to Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele (15 IV-30 Sep; 2 Hours. 30 Min. of Pont). Before you set off, you must call the hostel and check, are there places.
For supporters of easier excursions, the route from the main village of DEGIOZ is the best, also called Valsavarenche, to Rifugio Orñelles (2 Hours. 30 Min.), and further to a group of high mountain ponds. The whole tour takes seven hours, but it can be shortened a bit, going down to Pont by the trail # 3a. Even less tiring is the two-hour route towards the Grand Etret Glacier, closing the valley, although the first episode of it is quite monotonous.
The only hotel in Degioz is relatively expensive, having only double rooms with private bathroom included in the price 48 000 L, Parco Nazionale (• 0165/95706), but ok. 25 minutes walk from Degioz, in the small settlement of Bien there is a seasonal hotel Edelweiss (in 0165/95702), in which you pay for a double room without bathroom 25 000—30 000 L (depending on the season).
Best camping, Pont Breuil, located in Pont (VI-IX). It has the only one in the area, quite well stocked shop, and an additional attraction are Capricorns, which in June descend, to graze in the grassy meadow around the tents (waking up in the morning it is worth having a camera at hand). There is also a bar and several hotels in Pont, of which the cheapest is Gran Paradiso (• 0165/95714), where for double rooms without bathroom you pay 30 000 L.
In Degioz there are bars and restaurants, while in Pont you have to either cook yourself, or eat in one of the hotels.
Val di Rhemes
Val di RhSmes, least known, but the most easily accessible of these three valleys, also ends in a glacier. It is best to stop at the end of the valley, on the edge of the village of Rhemes Notre Dame small settlement BRUIL, where most of the hiking trails start from. One of the easier ones is the trail, running along the river to the waterfall Cascata di Goletta (it looks most impressive in the spring during the period of snow melting), from where you can go further to Rifugio Benevolo (Kon. III-V, Sat-Sun. in VI and VII-IX) and the Goletta mountain pond. There are only five beds in the rifugio, so it's better to call before leaving (• 0165/96113). In Della Pineta hotels (• 0165/96101) and Pellaud (• 0165/96110) in Bruil for double rooms without bathroom you pay ok. 30 000 L, while in the low season, for the same price, you can get a room with private bathroom in hotel Galicia (• 0165/96100).