On the mountainous terrain and the jagged shore around Monte Portofino, the coast becomes flatter and forms the Gulf of Golfo di Tigullio, stretching in a wide arc through 28 kilometers . There are no quiet and undeveloped areas near the beach, and the bay is surrounded on two sides by highly commercialized summer resorts, Rapallo i Sestri Levante. Between them lie the smaller towns of Chiavari and Lavagna, from where buses run deep into the province, to the Basilica of San Salvatore and then to the resort town of Santo Stefano d'Aveto.
As most of the rail route between Rapallo and Chiavari passes through tunnels, for sightseeing purposes it is better to take a local bus. He is driving along the coast along a dangerously winding road, passing a series of small capes. The whole area is quite densely built-up, although some villas and gardens surrounded by wistaria, fig trees and tiny olive groves look spacious and spectacular. The most visible, however, is the sea, which, outside large centers, is extremely transparent. Every now and then charming turquoise coves appear in the windows of the bus, which in a moment disappear around the bend, and al mare subtitles (you can get off at one of them, but you shouldn't expect emptiness on the beach).
Rapallo
RAPALLO is a very extensive summer resort, having dozens of comfortable and glazed hotels, occupying entire tracts of land, restaurants. It is located in the first of the Golfo bays. At the beginning of this century, Rapallo was an unknown provincial town, to which various people came, writers enchanted by the extraordinary beauty of the bay. Today, you can experience similar feelings only in the early morning or at dusk. Max Beerbohm, a cartoonist and ardent critic of British imperialism, spent half his life in Rapallo, who was surrounded by a large group of followers, and in years 1925-1930 Ezra Pound wrote thirty of his first Cantos here. On the other hand, Ernest Hemingway, having visited the area, stated, that the sea is flat and boring here.
Currently, the most important buildings in the city are the great marina and the castle at the end of a small dyke, which formerly housed a prison. Currently, a showroom has been arranged there. Rapallo has its own, life independent of the tourism industry, which focuses on paved cubes, located behind the Salt Gate, streets of the Old Town. In this city's commercial center, on Piazza Cile and the streets surrounding it, there is a market every Thursday.
It is best to look for an overnight stay in Rapallo on the seaside boulevard, in hotels and guesthouses situated among palm trees and orange bushes. I tak Pension Bandoni, Via Marsala 24 (*0185/50423) has rooms (also with balconies) in price 40 000 L. In the Hotel Rapallo next to it (*0185/60380) you pay for a room with a bathroom and breakfast 55000 L. Double room in the luxurious Astoria Hotel, slightly away from the boulevard, Via Gramsci 4 (*0185/273533) it costs true 95000 L, but the amenities, for which you pay there, they are worth the money. From cheaper hotels, located at the Da Beppino station, Corso Assereto 15 (*0185/50352), has rooms for less than 20 000 L, while in the distance 1000 Camping Rapallo is meters from Santa Maria di Campo and the motorway, Via San Lazzaro 6 (*0185/60260).
Cheapest in town, and in addition, a meal served very quickly can be enjoyed in the Da Beppino restaurant (by. 20.30). Have your fill, but for a much higher price you can, for example,. in Zi Teresa, Corso Italy 33 (closed. Wed), on the other hand, you can try Ligurian cuisine and avoid exaggerated costs in Micheletto, Via San Massimo 33 (closed. wt.). Until the latter, located near the golf course, the restaurant is taken by bus either to Santa Maria di Campo (you need to get off at the corner of Via San Massimo), or directly to San Massimo. There are also a number of bars in the city similar to English pubs, like. lying between the station and the Taverna Paradiso castle, Via Venezia 72.
Office AAST, Via Diaz 9 (codz. 8.30-12.30 and 15.30-18.30) has sketchy maps of hiking trails, which lead to hidden in the mountains behind Rapallo MONTALLEGRO. Pedestrians in less physical condition can go up the cable car, whose valley station is ten minutes from the castle. You can also take the bus, which, following the same route, passes SAN MAURIZIO DI MONTI on the way (there are some cheap ones, restaurants specializing in Ligurian cuisine). Santuario di Montallegro is picturesquely situated on the top of a mountain, it is surrounded by steep slopes, terraced down the green valley. There are olive and vegetable plantations on these slopes. The sanctuary was founded in 1557, when the Byzantine icon of the Madonna was miraculously in the hands of a certain Giovanni Chichizola. In memory of this event, a festa takes place every year on the first three days of July, during which the icon flaunts the city. A fireworks competition is also organized on this occasion, which culminated in the mock set fire to the castle.