East Shore, Lecco and the middle zone
The eastern shore of the lake, stretching from the flat swamps in the north to the left branch of Como, Lago Lecco, lying at the foot of the jagged Monte Rosegone massif, is less sunny and therefore less popular than western. On the other hand, a triangular section of land between two branches of Como, middle zone, has more lush vegetation, it is sunnier and off the crowded coast has many quiet villages and three lakes in the depths. The east coast has a more modest tourist base, and existing centres, except Colico, Bellano and Varenny on the main shore and Bellagio on the promontory of the middle zone, where ships and hydrofoils stop, are rather difficult to access.
Northern part
At the very end of the eastern shore of the lake is the last stop on the route of ships along Como, small industrial center COLICO, whose only attraction is lying on the promontory of the peninsula, right next to the marina of ships, restored eleventh-century abbey of Abbazia di Piona.
From here, ships and hydrofoils sail further south, stopping m.in. in a tiny, bellano town specializing in silk and cotton production. From the nearby mountains flows a steep gorge humming loudly, which can be admired from the height of wobbly footbridges (Easter-IX Thu-Tue. 9.30-12.30 and 13.20-17.30).
Located further south, VARENNA is the most important village on the east coast. Decorated with statues placed in the shade of citrus trees, the gardens of Villa Monastero (codz. 9.00-12.00 and 14.00-17.00, in high season to 19.00) they are not so wonderful and popular, like gardens on the eastern shore.
Varenna's biggest attraction is one of the shortest rivers in Italy., 250-meter long Fiumelatte, whose foaming waters are milky white in colour. To date, the secret of the color of the water has not been discovered, nor the cause of the sudden outflow of the river at the end of March and its equally rapid extinction at the end of October. From Varenna you can also go to the Lombards, supposedly erected by the queen of the Lombards, Theodolinda, Castello di Vezio, from where there are wonderful views.
Hotels in Varenna are not cheap, with the exception of Cavallino standing at the marina (•0341/830223), which offers double rooms for 34 OOOL, but in the season there is not much chance of a free place. Nearby, more refined Olivedo (•0341/830115), demands for a double room already 43 OOOL.
Central zone: Bellagio
Views from the triangular area between the two branches of the lake, especially from the most elegant holiday resort on the Como, BELLAGIO, are unparalleled. In this small town there are ocher-painted hotels with balconies and a small, cypress-studded marina for yachts. Located on a hill, erected on the site of yet another villa of Pliny, Villa Serbelloni, the most felt is a bit the English charm of the Bellagio. The villa was once a favorite holiday destination of various European monarchs and it is not difficult to imagine them walking among the grottoes and statues of an extremely rich garden and admiring the views of both branches of the lake. Wonderfully decorated with frescoes, the interior is closed to visitors, but groups are shown around the garden twice a day (15 IV-15 X, codz. from output. Pn. 10.00 and 16.00). Under the hill stands a refined hotel, which is also called Villa Serbelloni, and it was visited by, among others. resting after the war (at last 1945 Year) Churchill and John Kennedy. Neighboring Lido, surrounded by terraces planted with cypresses, exotic gardens, the neoclassical Villa Melzi has a collection of Egyptian sculptures.
In Bellagio, it's best to stay in the Giardinetto, Via Roncati 12 (031/950168), which has pristine double rooms and a garden suitable for a picnic. Roma, Via Salita Grandę 6 (*031/950424), it has nice rooms overlooking the lake, but they cost money 50 OOOL, you pay for a triple room without a bathroom 40 OOOL.
Lecco
LECCO looks most picturesque in the early morning from the lake side, when it is entered by boat from Bellagio. The sunny slopes of the west coast seem to belong to a different world, and the industrial complex of Lecco is hidden in the shadow of the granite mountains. The not very attractive city itself is located in the vicinity of well-suited for hiking mountain areas. It also has a sufficiently developed network of railway connections: you can take the train from here to Milan and Bergamo and along the eastern shore of Como via Varenna to Sondrio in Valtellina.
In the city, most visitors focus on the basilica, which prides itself on having 14th-century frescoes painted under the influence of Giotto, and at the family home of Alessandro Manzoni, author of one of the great novels of the 19th century, The bride and groom, Villa Manzoni in Via Amandola, where the museum is located (Tue-Sat. 10.00-12.30 and 14.30-17.30, Nd. 10.00-15.00).
Above Lecco, at the end of the road, which leads to MALNAGA, there is a lower station of the funivia cable car, which takes passengers to Piani d'Erna, from where further into the mountains lead hiking trails (you can also go out there on foot along the paths # 1, # 7 and # 18). To another point, where the trails start, Piani Resinelli, by bus from outside the station.
Pedestrian tourists prefer to stay in a youth hostel in the small village of Germanedo on Via Filanda 9 (0341 /494509), near the cable car and trails to Piani d'Erna. For those who want to stay in the city center, the Brambila Hotel, located above the bar-restaurant of the same name, is the best, na Via Pescatori (Via Corti block; bus # 1; • 0341/368330), where quite neglected double rooms- and triple cost money 30 OOOL. For food, it's best to buy good and inexpensive sandwiches or warm dishes at Alpinista, at the beginning of Via Fratelli Cairoli.