Albenga
Driving along the coast to the west, you pass the gardens of petunia and artichoke seedlings, shops with garden gnomes, car parks for caravans and touring cars and the commute to the small market town of ALBENGA, situated in the middle of a non-forested area, the plain formed by the sea. The pebble beach has nothing to do with it, but surrounded by medieval walls, the pleasant Old Town is worth a visit.
Red-roofed buildings and 13th and 14th century tower houses cluster around Piazza San Michele. It is towering over it, erected in XI, a Cattedrale enlarged at the beginning of the 14th century. It contains the 5th century baptistery built on the orders of Constantius III. The curator of the neighboring Torre Comunale, not very interesting Museo Civico Ingauno (Tue-Sun. 9.00-12.00 and 15.00-18.00; 2000 L), serves as a guide to the baptistery. 10-sided on the outside, and the octagonal inside building contains fragments of mosaics, in which the apostles are depicted as doves. The floor is covered with boards, because there is always water here, and leaning against the walls (to avoid moisture) piles of amphorae supported the roof until the beginning of this century, and being empty inside, they also contributed to the enhancement of acoustics.
Just above Piazza San Michele is the frescoed Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop's Palace) with the cathedral treasury (Tue-Sun. 9.00-12.00). On the other side of the Piazza, there is the Renaissance Palazzo Peloso-Cepolla (Tue-Sun. 9.00-12.00 and 15.00-18.00; 2000 L), in which tower items found in the wreckage of a Roman galley are displayed, extracted in the years 50. from coastal silt around the island of Isola Gallinara. Remains of a Roman port city from the 1st century, Album Inguanum, lay many layers below the present city level, and its focal point is marked today by the Loggia dei Quarto Canti, located on the corner of Via delle Medgalie and Via Bernardo Ricci.
Most bars and restaurants can be found in the vicinity of the cathedral. Take-away snacks are served by Puppo on Via Torlaro, and Da Charlotte in the square adjacent to the cathedral. Na Piazza dei Leoni, at the back of the baptistery, there is a nice osteria, and beyond the walls, on Pontelungo Road, popularna trattoria Lanterna Verde (both closed. Nd.).
EPT Office (Mon-Sat. 9.00-12.00 and 15.00-19.00, VII and VIII also nd. 9.00-12.00) is located on Viale Martiri della Liberta 17 (the street connecting the bus and railway stations). There are hotels in this area and by the sea. Example, Bucaniere on the waterfront (• 0182/50220) i Italy, Viale Martiri della Liberta 10 (•0182/50405), they have rooms for approx. 36000 L. The more attractive of the campsites are to the west of Albenga. In distance 5 minutes by bus towards Alassio, Camping Delfmo is situated right by the sea, where among the tents there are wicker pergolas. Five minutes away, on a terraced slope above the tracks and road, not far from the clear sea and pebble beach, on which pine trees grow, is Camping Sant'Anna.
Further into the province
A few kilometers from Albenga into the province is the village of VIL-LANOVA D'ALBENGA, exporting violets all over Europe. In the second week of September, there is a religious festival in the village, during which the whole city is decorated with these flowers.
Several buses a day run westwards, by partially wooded, the terraced valley of Arroscia, to the medieval market town of PIEVE DI TECO. Created in the year 1233 around the parish church, well and mill, the town has grown and today there are palaces and craft workshops in the streets surrounded by arcades, and the city became a small industrial center. Every year 15 August, to commemorate the rescue of the city's inhabitants from the invaders from Piedmont in the 14th century, a women's bowling tournament is held here, and on Good Friday evening a hooded procession passes through the streets. In addition, the city has good bus connections to the interior of the province.
Further up the valley the bus takes a very long time and finally arrives at PONTEDASSIO, where the Museo Storico degli Spaghetti is located, and to the village of MENDATICA, founded in the 7th century by refugees from the north fleeing the Lombard invasion. It is in this village that the routes to Monte Saccarello begin, there are also cheap hotels here: La Campagnola, Via San Bernardo 28 (•018338745; just 15 000 L) and a little more expensive II Torchietto, Piazza Roma 10 (• 0183/38729 ).
Beyond Albenga, the terrain becomes more mountainous, and the railroad and road run right on the seafront as far as ALASSIO. The individual character of this once beautiful summer resort has ruined its popularity. Through the gardens during the season, the boulevards and beaches are crowded with tourists, and the atmosphere of the city is rather repulsive then.
A bit south though, w LAIGUEGLIA, there is one of the most beautiful beaches on the riviera. There are several streets with arcades in this former port, large baroque church and stylish hotels. The elegantly kitschy Hotel Mariella, Dante Street 190 (•0182/49356) has rooms for 30000 L and serves great meals. Located by the beach and decorated in the style of the years 60. Windsor Hotel, Via XXV Aprile 7 (• 0182/49000) however, it is a bit more expensive. For those on a budget, Pensione Rita is good, Via Roma 120 (the main street of the town; •0182/49400), with rooms from 22000 L.
Beginning at the intersection of Via Mimosa and Via Roma, the steps lead through the cottage complex and connect to the old Roman road at the top of the hill.. From here you go into the forest along the road marked as strada privata, and then - following the signs - you come to the ruins of Castello di Andorra and the most beautiful one, according to popular opinion, Romanesque church on the Riviera (access 45 Minutes). The very route of this trip, leading through olive groves and forests, crossing numerous mule-trodden paths, it is very beautiful and even if you do not intend to reach the castle and the church, it is worth taking a look at this picturesque area and spend an afternoon in one of its cool and shady corners. You can either go back from the castle, or continue through the outskirts of ANDORA to the train station.
Cervo and surroundings
A flurry of tourists on the coast made, that the fishing village of CERVO, situated on the slope of the mountain (on the opposite side of Capo Mele), looks unnaturally clean and refined. The richly ornamented baroque church of San Giovanni Battista towers over the houses, dedicated to local coral hunters. Evening concerts of chamber orchestras take place in the charming square in front of the church in July and August, and in the steep streets around the church there are craft workshops selling various pseudo-artistic items.
Further along the coast there are a number of villages, which have Diano in their names, which is connected with the cult of Diana prevailing here during the Roman times. The surrounding hills are dotted with villages, many of which specialize in certain products, most often in candy, sheep's or goat's milk cheese, olive oil, and in season in mushrooms and chestnuts. Behind Cervo, two rather uninteresting summer resorts, SAN BARTOLOMEO AL MARE and DIANO MARINA merge with each other, preceding the rugged peninsula and the port of Imperia.